All Aboard the Gravy Train…


Welcome to Southern-esque, Creole influenced, N’awlins eating now pulling into Track Flatiron. Gravy opened less than two months ago and it doesn’t seem to have packed in the crowds as yet but it should. It’s roomy, colorful and comfortable with lovely hanging globes casting a serene glimmer over all. Playdoh playhouse meets Arts and Crafts. And in this happy setting there are the nicest staff, an adventurous beverage director and some really good food.

I had the grouper with steamed cockles, braised escarole, and succotash with toasted corn in an “ocean broth”. The gravy was delightfully herbal, green from parsley and pesto-ness and it tasted like a spoonful of spring. The special appetizer of a lump crabmeat salad with homemade potato chips had the feel of 1965 but the clean modern taste of now. Very fresh and delicious. Others at my table were equally satisfied. Homemade sausage in a bourbon caramel was a hit. The scallops with honey grits in a lobster barbecue jus struck that note of salty, sweet, and briny. Good gravy! Sullivan Island Bog placed you right in that canoe slipping through the bayou…a combination of shrimp, crawfish, mussels etc highlighted with some okra, andouille and red rice. Buh bye NYC. And the corn flake crusted chicken stuffed with practically everything – kale, cheddar cheese, bbq beans, andouille. A huge plate. That diner had started with the crawfish gumbo fritters in aioli so likely won’t need to eat for a week!

They have a great bourbon, whiskey, beer list but we went with wine as advised by the beverage man, a 2007 Domaine Bellegarde with hints of sherry and an ultra light Cotes de Beaune whose name I’ve unfortunately not committed to memory. Both were kind of unusual and incredibly good.

Might have been inclined to skip dessert at this point but as it was a little birthday dinner for a friend we needed something to put a candle in! So a three berry pie with blackberries, raspberries and strawberries was a perfect foil but my favorite was the ice cream sundae with coffee, chocolate, peanut brittle, macerated cherries and love. I’d skip dinner and just order three of those. Ha.

Great seated bar area to hang out in for a drink and perhaps a small plate or two or maybe perch at the nice long bar if not ready for a full meal but definitely go and partake in some of the seasonal saucy themed dishes – before that whistle blows and there’s not a seat to be had.


32 East 21st Street between Broadway & Park Avenue South


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