Brooklyn dining is fantastic and in my opinion, Greenpoint just may be at the top of this food chain. Among the jewels, we find a red diamond right on Franklin Street, tho it could make perfect sense in the Marais. Unassuming, unapologetic, unbelievably good and tres charmant. They make it clear that this is how and what that they want to serve and that you will in fact – enjoy it. All in a loving, seasonal, guileless and slightly assertive way. And I was thrilled.
I’m not sure it’s possible to have better food at reasonable prices surrounded by such a warm, comfortable-with-an-edge vibe. Brooklyn or beyond. The distressed walls, natural elements, subdued (and ever popular) edison bulbs set a tone of rustic chic. So it works well for a special evening or for just getting some dinner with pals. Plus there’s a garden! And brunch. No need to ever leave…
The night I went we were offered some early springtime specials. Soft poached eggs on creamy polenta with foraged mushrooms and spring garlic. A jubilee of happiness. Heaven as made in a mortar and pestle, creamy upon creaminess. Can you ever go wrong with burrata? Not really but here it’s even more right. And it came with a cracker like accompaniment that we had to refill just for it’s own oiled saltiness. Spring pea soup topped with mascarpone was as joyous and comforting as spotting the first robin red breast of the season. Throw in the charred sgombro (holy mackerel!) with toasted pearl couscous and calabrian chilies and my aim is true. That was insanely good and beautifully spiced.
The infamous bread comes in a claypot, it stands up in quarters as if to be something vegetal I imagine but it’s chewiness begs to be slathered in the soft salted butter. The match doesn’t disappoint. I usually deny myself this portion of the evening but not this night. Not this bread. Not this butter.
Roasted chicken with honey, garlic, black kale and panelle made this dish sing. Nothing ubiquitous here. Just bliss. But of course for me – it was the stuzzichini with wild ramps, fava beans and brown butter.
I have no words. It. Was. Great.
The wine list is very pleasant with nothing really crazy out there but all very trustworthy choices. Plus cocktails that match the seasonality of the food.
Brunch features a renowned bloody mary and a french toast with apples etc that I haven’t yet tried. But I will. I want to be back there. Now.
222 Franklin Street between Green/Huron Streets
*in spite of what has been written, they do take reservations (needed) and credit cards now.
* Header photo taken by Angela Carbonetti / http://www.angelacarbonetti.com