Sometimes there’s a place that you just really like. You feel comfortable as soon as you sit at the table. The elements add up – food, atmosphere, staff, general ambience, a big spoon of truffle butter…and you’re won over. Here lies the very newly opened, barely finished but that’s just fine Comodo. Hooray.
Pan Latin and love. The house that Tamy and Felipe built. A married duo that made their mark with their..shhhh…slightly more underground dining club called Worth Kitchen. Now they are officially brick and mortar, a 45 seat rustic homey chic vintage candlelit farmhouse with a very big twinkle in its eye.
Nothing they do is without irony so it may have a Latin bent but that’s with a South American-Mexican-Spanish pedigree and a great big dollop of New York City edge. Traditions of all sorts meet up with a how YOU doin’ savoir faire.
The menu is small – at least for these early weeks, but certainly not lacking. And major carnivores, flexitarians and vegetarians are all delightfully included.
They don’t yet have a liquor license but the well stocked Wine Hut is just around the corner and will deliver to your table or as my pal Rick did, you can run over and get some pretty great bottles to accent the meal. We started with a Bandol Rose and a spoon of heaven.
Bread and…creamy truffle butter. Served so delicately in an oversized spoon over a glass bowl.
Four appetizers and we had them all. Dishes are based on the day’s market availability and we lucked out with a hamachi tiradito and uni with a ponzu aji sauce. Every part of this dish sang out in full voice and with perfect clarity.
My friend Bruce wondered if he could have the Pao de queijo lamb sliders with a chipotle cream dipping sauce directly injected into his veins. That good.
And c’mon – flash fried hibiscus & queso fresco spring rolls with a fig wine reduction sauce. Any one of those ingredients alone would make me implode from happiness. The combination? Uh, yeah.
The Peruvian styled pollock ceviche with citrus, peaches, cilantro and bocadillo may have been my favorite but only by a nose. It sparkled with layers of flavor and freshness.
Four entrees but we only managed three selections so that none of our blood would be spilled with fork wars. I’ll definitely be back for the missing fourth – the quinoa with farm fresh vegetables. I’m sure Felipe will make it worth my while.
Hard to say which of these were better and thankfully I don’t have to. Each one was complex, distinct, superb.
Coffee rubbed cochinita in a citrus sauce on a rice grit cake.
Scallops with chipotle and avocado sauce.
Seared duck breast with “classico” sauce and quinoa. I will add that the classico here refers to the marinade of classic coca cola from Mexico! Jeepers.
We hated it.
Happy chef…delightful food.
Two desserts. We ordered both, took a bite of each and straight away asked for round two. So good. Meltingly, hauntingly, addictively kind of good.
Tres leches cake
Flourless chocolate cake with melted brigadeiro and strawberries
Didn’t like them either.
Plus a great dessert wine to go with…
Oh it’s lovely here. It’s fun, inviting and more than satisfying. Happy chef, happy hosts, convivial crowd, intriguing touches, a couple of candles…a table of joy.
58 MacDougal Street just below Houston
They will ultimately take credit cards but cash only for the first couple weeks and same deal for BYO.
*Header photo by Angela Carbonetti / http://www.angelacarbonetti.com