Faro To Table

Faro

It’s cool, creamy, industrial chic, but also like a big-warm-everything-will-be-alright-I swear kind of hug. I’ve been lucky enough to dine here a few times and each visit reminds me that Portland has nothing on NYC. Plus there’s that Roman Gnocchi but I’ll get to that later.

Owned by married partners, Chef Kevin Adey and wife Deborah, who handles the front of house, they have a combined lineage of Jean Georges, Le Bernardin and most recently, Northeast Kingdom, also in Bushwick. Together they’ve created a restaurant with unaffected charm that truly and soundly is farm and grain mill to table. Others may do it, or tease it but these two are living their dream. Wood fired food, ranging from locally grown rooftop vegetables to NY state grown grains that are hand milled in house, a farmer’s ethically produced meat, to local fish and pastas that are conjured from just made grains by the hands behind the counter.

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If you live nearby, likely the streets will feel more familiar and less deserted to you as the “L” or the Uber pulls up. But I love nothing more than having no idea where you are, peering through a dark evening and seeing the light. So to speak. No reservations, and if you encounter a brief wait, no matter. Great staff, splendid food. It’s  worth it.

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Now, a tavola! Started with an on tap NY State Rosé that was delightful and set the tone of pleasure and whimsy for the food. There’s definitely a sly wit behind the range. Plus we added house made warm bread with butter that is just impossible to deny. It’s a menu item and they only make a few loaves a day so you should just go for it. Carbs are not the thing to fear here. Embrace and revel.

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There’s a good list of wines, local beers and twelve lovingly designed cocktails. Apparently the whiskey sour is the one to beat, made with Medley Bros. 102 Heritage Bourbon and with twists and dashes of this & that, it has garnered raves all around.

Two different porridges from two different visits, both divine. At one dinner a friend looked directly into the bowl and asked, where have you been all my life? It’s supreme comfort and tantalizing seduction all at once.

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The illustrious, widely acclaimed Sweet Pea Porridge with local grains, morel mushrooms and foamy whey. Essence of spring. Fabulous. Did I mention that?

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This week it was a lovely combination of corn, chanterelles and scallions. You just wouldn’t have expected porridge in the current dining scene to rate so highly and echo Oliver’s cry of “please sir, could I have some more?”

Several more digressions before we hit what might be considered the main courses. Larger plates? We shared everything each time so it was all just a huge feast to me.

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Fire Roasted Beet with a local farm egg and pistachio pesto sit atop a cream of goat cheese. The four main ingredients are all winners, bringing out the very best in each other. Inspired.

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Tomatoes and cucumbers from nearby Brooklyn Grange Rooftop Farm, in an escarole boat with scattered bits of feta. Simple, delightful, summer.

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Wood fire roasted carrots. Like being in Italy, good Italian cooking is the sum of the ingredients not the now popular foam to table techniques. Another entry from Brooklyn Grange Farm. Truly locavore, even the same boro.

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Peekytoe Crab with corn and a dollop of creme fraiche was fresh and summery but the only dish I’ve eaten here that seemed to be missing a soupçon of something. Maybe because my companions cleaned off the creme fraiche before I got into it and that could have made the difference? Still very nice but it’s in tough competition with my table’s other dishes.

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Corn tortellini with mascarpone, chanterelles and carmelized bits of fresh corn was a late spring entree and it’s salty sweet subtlety still lingers in my mind. The chanterelles were a wonderful counter to the corn’s creamy earthiness, and gave the pasta a peppery finish with a hint of their apricot musk. Hope it returns. June is right around the corner right? Sigh.

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A special pasta the other evening was a delicate garganelli with insanely -can’t worship enough- peppers from the clearly profound fields of Brooklyn Grange Farm. Perfectly folded, toothsome squares of pasta. This almost made me regret the second order of the Roman Gnocchi for the table but I digress.

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An on-the-menu pasta is the somewhat infamous Squid Ink Calamaretti served with Maine lobster in a light coconut curry milk. All of the pastas are so beautifully, brilliantly cooked – it’s almost like the perfect chip, bet you can’t eat just one. The lobster was spot on and we all loved that the pasta shape appears as squid rings so it was not only delicious but amusing. Pasta with a sense of humor. Who knew.

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There is much to be enjoyed from sustainably sourced and ethically produced meats on the menu but we only got as far as the Wood Fired Scallops with peas, bottarga and milled right there by the chef – emmer (farro). These were just great. The ideal sear, charred crust that sinks into that sweet scallop brine as you bite it.

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As much as I enjoyed everything and am clearly a fan, my heart is seated squarely in that Roman Gnocchi. This is just heaven. It’s not a light dish, two large pieces of semolina covered in yet more from Brooklyn Grange gold – swiss chard or kale, depending on what month you dined here. Then cream and salt cured egg yolks. Apparently the egg is smoked overnight in the embers of all that wood-firing and then shaved over the rich, soft grain. I can’t get enough. It’s luscious. Best word I can think of for it. Truly luscious.

The space is big, bright and airy, a former warehouse for Moma art storage. A minimal fifty seats keep diners feeling spacious and comfortable. Decorated (that word minimally applicable here) sparely. White walls, startlingly high ceilings, custom built tables and the coup de grace, locally handcrafted high fire clay plates by artist Sarah Ritz through her company Freundeskreis. They’re all varied, muted hues and beautiful. And as intended, go impeccably with the decor and most importantly the philosophy behind Faro. Local, artisanal, community.

The tables were even custom sized to accommodate the ample plates and bowls, all of which were created to allow for diners with shared plates and glasses to actually have room at the table. So nice to be considered for a change.

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Innovative, outstanding cooking with more than a nod to local and sustainable sources, a celebration of respect and collaboration for regional growers, producers, artists and most emphatically, the food Chef Adey creates himself.

Faro
436 Jefferson Street
Bushwick, Brooklyn
718.381.8201
Open daily from 6pm-11pm

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